Isle of Wight to the Black Sea

Isle of Wight to the Blacksea  in 2011




Some people enjoy torture. For others, it is torture to have 
fun ( Euro-velo signpost in Serbia. Junction D160)

Euro-Velo 6 is a cycle route that starts at the Atlantic Ocean and finishes at the Black Sea. It is about 2300 miles and follows the rivers Loire, Rhine and Danube. I found out as much as I could about it and decided to attempt to cycle it starting in August 2011. I decided to support a charity called Comber who help orphans and disabled people in Eastern Europe. I put a page together about the ride and published it on the `Just Giving` website. www.justgiving/David-Johnson15 I had email addresses of friends and acquaintances and decided to send my page out about four days after the start of my trip in the hope that some of them would be generous enough to make a donation. I thought after four days I would have a good idea if everything was going well.


My route to the Black Sea


Day 1 Distance 8miles Monday 15th August

Left Newport Isle of Wight on the 15th August at 6pm and caught the Wightlink ferry to Portsmouth. The bike was loaded up and I was a bit worried by the weight. Would the bike be unstable? Would I break a spoke? Would I be able to pedal the bike with all that weight?? My son Richard and his girlfriend Sarah came to see me off and wave goodbye. I cycled off and everything seemed alright and I got to Fishbourne to catch the ferry to Portsmouth.

My weight was 14 stone ( 90kg)

Bike weight with luggage 5 stone (30kg)

Bike without luggage 1 stone (7kg)

Luggage weight 4 stone (23kg)

BP 133/82... resting pulse 50... 13/08/11 morning

Arrived at Portsmouth and pushed my bike towards the continental ferry port as there was so much spare time. Started to wonder if I was crazy to do this ride as I was going to be away from home for many weeks and entirely on my own. Was it so important to me? and to make matters worst various people I know had tried to put me off going by suggesting negative things like :

You will probably get killed by a mad French driver
You will probably get murdered
You will get shot at as you cycle along
You will be robbed of everything
You will be chased by wolves on your bike

You will be killed by a bear in your tent

All these things were going through my mind as I pushed the bike through the shopping centre in Portsmouth, just killing time as my ferry was at 11pm. I arrived at the Continental Ferry Port and joined the queue for the LD ferry (cost £28 single) It was a long wait and I was the only cycle in the queue with many motorcycles. At 10pm they started loading and I was the first on. I found myself a good seat where I could lie down on the floor in my sleeping bag if I wanted to.

Day 2... Distance 90 miles Tuesday 16th August

I left the ferry at 8am ( French Time) and showed my passport and cycled out of the ferry terminal. My first problem was I wanted to go over the Pont du Normany a huge suspension bridge across the River Seine at Le Havre. Needs to be accessed by bicycles at a different point than cars. I had printed a map but manage to get confused, but then suddenly found the route and crossed the bridge. I felt happy cycling over that bridge knowing I had started my journey. Everything felt alright.

Using my map I tried to make my way South-East towards Orlean which was on the River Loire. I looked up a village 20 miles away and put it into my GPS. By doing this I navigated from village to village on D roads. Passed through Brionne, Conches,Damville and Nonancourt. Managed to buy some food in Carrefour. Had a beer and drank plenty of water. Could not find any campsites, guesthouses, so just before dark came to a village, found a picnic bench on some grass away from the road where I could cook and eventually sleep in my bivy bag. Not what I really wanted, but it didn`t rain and it was a warm night. ( I had a little gas cooker and dehydrated packet food I had brought with me)

Day 3...Distance...100 miles Wednesday 17th August

Arrived at Orleans late. Couldn`t find a campsite or accommodation so had to sleep rough again. Managed to buy a drink of beer at a bar but they didn`t do food. This business that every French town has a campsite that I`ve been told so many times just isn`t true. I haven`t seen one campsite in France so far. The only place I could find to sleep was a glass bus shelter where the bench was too short to lie on.I had to try and sleep sitting on the bench with my head on my bike saddle. Progress is not a problem it`s finding accommodation which is proving a headache at the moment.

Day 4... Thursday 18th August....70 miles

Cycled from Orleans and reached Bonny. Passed through Sully, Gien, Chatillon in the Loire Valley. No sign of a cycle path or route 6 signs. However stayed on quiet D roads, except for a few thundering lorries. Saw a few cyclists and stopped to help a couple find their way. Headed South East towards Nevers. Euro-Velo 6 not what I expected will have to wait for Germany for it to materialise. How do I feel? I`m getting used to it, the routine. This is my first night at a campsite. (4 Euros) I`ve just had a shower and shave and feel great. I`ve got a sore bottom from the saddle. My knees feel a little stiff. My main problem is no travelling companion to discuss things with and the language barrier. I started wishing I`d paid attention to my French lessons while at school. I am managing to talk to a few Frenchmen in my way and I can order a beer or coffee. Beer tastes good in the middle of the afternoon when it`s hot and gives me lots of energy. Water is a problem running out between towns with no public taps. My water intake is high my tongue feels stiff with thirst sometimes. Only one road incident. My fault, I forgot to drive on the right side of the road. Suddenly saw a car thundering towards me. He tooted and I realised what I had done. The habits of a lifetime are hard to break.

Day 5... Friday 19th August.... 57 miles

When you camp there`s always much to do before you can leave, so I was later than usual leaving the campsite. I had slept well in the tent, but had a nightmare dream my back wheel was buckled (It wasn`t true because I checked it in the morning). I continued South East towards Nevers and the GPS took me to the campsite next to the River Loire. It was more expensive than the night before (8 Euros) but camped right next to the river. Slightly annoyed there was no picnic bench to sit at and lean bike against.

During the day it was hot and water was always on my mind and in the end had to ask some black French people who were outside their house if they could spare me some. They could speak English, great! In France, every little village I went through seems deserted. Rarely see shops or people. When there are shops, no supermarket. Where do they get their food?  Drivers are fast but have a little more respect for cyclists than UK drivers. People are well mannered and usually say`Bonjour`

Day 6  Saturday 20th August..... 57miles

Before I left the campsite I used the computer and Internet to send my `just giving page` to a list of emails addresses on my computer to see if I could raise some money for my chosen charity Comber. The French receptionist could speak English and I filled in a questionnaire about the campsite and she also gave me some plasters for my bottom which was agony. Left about 10am and it was already very hot. It was hard going, and I made many shortstops in the shade. The temperature reading 38 degrees C. Wanted to reach Digoin but found a campsite for 13miles before the town for7euros with plenty of space. Still heading South-East in the Loire Valley but tomorrow expect to head North-East. No mention of Euro-Velo 6 just quiet D roads. Saw a few cycle tourists and family cyclists using the canal towpaths.

Day 7 Sunday 21st August.....66miles

Began cycling North East along the Saone Valley. I stopped in Digoin and when leaving got swept onto a motorway. Cars started tooting at me but there was nowhere to get off. Then I saw a path behind a barrier. I was able to quickly push the bike around the barrier and get back onto the D roads, set the GPS for Baxy and eventually got there in the heat after many hills. Got very short of water but was able to get topped up in a bar for the cost of a beer in Baxy. Not so much traffic about. Luckily I had bought some supplies when I left the campsite in the morning. It was lucky as didn`t see any food shops open. Couldn`t find a campsite so cycled toward Chalon. After a few miles found a clearing in a forest just off the road. Not ideal but as I had plenty of water and some food I could stay there. It was strange spending the night in the forest. Didn`t sleep well as could constantly hear strange noises, such as twigs snapping, whistles and hoots.

Day 8  Monday 22nd August....55miles

Was glad to be on my way in the morning from my forest accommodation. Cycled through Chalon and out of the town alongside the Saone passing through Allerey, Seurre, St Jean-de-Losne, then into Dole.

On the way made an interesting discovery. My GPS was set for a car, not a bicycle, so it was trying to send me along main roads. That`s why I was sent on a motorway a couple of days before. I made the necessary changes and immediately was sent along a road where I saw for the first time a Euro-Velo 6 sticker.

All I have to think about each day is water, food, accommodation, navigation and my schedule (approx 60miles) Every day at some point I think about what I am doing this for. I love cycling, but day after day I`m not always sure. My bottom is still painful, but today I discovered that if I put some air in my inflatable pillow and place it on my saddle I get some relief because I`m sitting on a cushion of air instead of a hard saddle. Later I bought a small cushion for 2 Euro and tied it on the saddle.

In Dole, I found a campsite that was a bit commercial and expensive (10.50 Euro) but better than a night in the forest. Managed to have a refreshing swim in the pool and felt good afterwards.


Day 9...Tuesday 23rd August........62miles

Started early, left Dole and headed for Besancon. Was on a lovely flat road that went on for miles. Saw another sign for route 6 and that made me feel better.. Sadly the GPS took me into Besancon and the traffic was heavy so pushed the bike on the pavement for a while. Found a supermarket and bought some provisions, including a beer and in a suitable place sat down ate and drank. It was too early to find a campsite so I pressed on to Baume-Les-Dames where I found a tourist office and the girl directed me to the campsite which was right by the river with route 6 running next to it. The next morning a German man called Alfred invited me for coffee with his family. They all spoke English and were very interested in my trip to the Black Sea. Also met a Frenchman who was cycling along route 6 but going the opposite way on a recumbent bicycle. We talked mainly about bicycles and maps. He had a whole set of route 6 maps for France.




Me, Moniker,Sarah and Julia. My German friends..
Photos by Alfred Ott

Day 10....Wednesday 24th August......73 miles

Most of the time I have a gentle breeze behind me so cycling was easy on the flat roads running alongside the Canal du Rhone. The countryside was beautiful, but it rained just a little for the first time today. I managed to reach Mulhouse by the evening and felt a little weary because I then had to find a campsite and supermarket. The campsite I found was crowded with people, expensive (10Euros) and there were no picnic benches where I could lean the bike and sit. I also discovered much wear on my rear tyre which worried me a bit.

Day 11.... Thursday 25th August.......44 miles

The day started cloudy with a little rain, but not enough for wet weather gear. It fact soon it turned hot and sunny. I went through Mulhouse following route 6. All went well. The cars in the town were very considerate towards cycles to a degree I`ve never experienced before and it made me uncomfortable when cars would just stop for me to cross a road. I followed the Canal du Rhone and eventually got to Basle which is in the corner of Switzerland. Passed through the old barriers that used to be manned by police with guns. Now you just pass through with no one watching or making you feel uncomfortable. I followed the signposts but kept getting lost. Eventually found the mighty Rhine and tried to follow alongside it, but missed a signpost and found myself going along a track with hedges on both sides that was getting smaller with no way off. Felt like a lorry driver being sent down a farm track by his GPS and getting stuck. After cutting my leg and falling over eventually found a way out. Got on the right path then lost it again. Got tired of navigating and saw a campsite and cut the day short. The campsite was small, pleasant but expensive (14 Euros) Had a refreshing shower and erected the tent by a picnic bench and had some food.


Day 12......Friday 26th August.........72 miles........ Total so far...683miles

Started the day well and rigidly stuck to the cycle path which was well signposted. Was careful not to miss the small signs and layout. Again it was very hot and I was still in Switzerland. Everything was expensive, campsites, supermarkets. They take your Euros and give you change in their own currency which you can only spend in Switzerland. The River Rhine looked so clear and people were swimming so I went for a swim, drifting down the river with the natural flow, then getting out and walking back. My location was north of Schaffhausen near Lake Constance on euro-velo6. I had to get some fresh water and saw a tennis club. Just like home. They gave me some water and I was pleased my bottles were full. I continued through a forest and came out the other side. It was getting dark and was very hot. I saw a picnic bench on the edge of the forest and decided to stop there and sleep rough in my bivy bag.  I cooked some food and made some tea, left everything on the bench and eventually got into my bivvy bag on the grass. The ground was hard and sleep was difficult but I must have drifted off. At about 3am there was a terrible thunderstorm and torrential rain. Before I could pack everything on the bike or in the pannier bags in the dark everything was soaking wet including me. I rode in the rain to the nearest village and for the rest of the night sat shivering under a bar awning with the rain coming down in buckets.

Day 13...... Saturday 27th August.........65miles

When the light came it was still raining a bit but as soon as I could I started moving on. For the first time, I felt like giving up and going home. This feeling was even stronger when I discovered my camera wouldn`t work. Suddenly I remembered there would be challenges that had to be overcome. I must have crossed the border into Germany and continued to follow route 6 but kept losing the way, especially in towns. I knew I was nearing the Danube Cycle Path (route 6) and the town of Tuttlington seems a good place to access it. It was a frustrating ride with steep hills and I kept falling asleep on the bike and found myself drifting off the road onto the grass, then waking up. This happened several times. Arrived at Tuttlington and found the Danube Cycle Way straight away (route 6) and proceeded along it. Wanted to take photos but the camera would not power up. Again there was no campsite but found a large hut with picnic benches nearby where I spent the night.

Day 14........ Sunday 28th August..........65miles

The day started misty but soon turned into a beautiful day. Got myself ready in my shelter by the cycle path and left, following route 6. Some of the scenery in the mist was stunning. I desperately wanted to take some photographs but my camera was broken and wouldn`t work. I kept pleading with it but it wasn`t listening to me. I decided to buy another camera and priced one up in the next town, but couldn`t buy it because the shop was closed as it was Sunday. Carried on but lost my way a couple of times, but soon got back on track. There were lots of cyclists enjoying Sunday rides on the many cycle paths. Found a cake shop open and managed to buy a small loaf and croissants which I ate listening to a German band in a village where a festival was being held. I plodded on through little villages and had to ask for water. A man in a kiosk gave me some and told me German water was very good. Soon started thinking about food and accommodation. Decided I didn`t want to sleep rough again and needed a shower. I followed two German girls riding their bikes who suddenly had to stop because the chain had become stuck on one of the bikes. I stopped and fixed it for them. They could speak perfect English and helped me get some more water and we rode and talked together for a while. They showed me a hotel where I might get accommodation and I said goodbye to them. They both wanted to become English teachers and were such nice friendly girls. Unfortunately, the hotel had no rooms vacant so had to cycle on to the next village where I ordered some food in a restaurant. The waiter sat talking to me all through the meal. He told me the Swiss weren`t in the Euro ( No wonder everything seemed so expensive). I gave the waiter my Swiss Francs which I now couldn`t use in Germany.  It was his lucky day as they equalled a 12 Euro tip. I found a hotel and for the first time had my own little room with TV, shower & WC. I had my own little travel kettle so could make tea and coffee. I felt like a King... The only negative part of the day was my book `The Danube Cycle Way` must have fallen off the back of my bike. I was upset and annoyed, but again told myself it was part of the challenge.

Day 15....Monday 29th August.....63 miles

During breakfast that morning met Steve and Matt two cyclists going along the same route as me. Steve was from the UK and Matt from northern Spain. They had started cycling at the beginning of the Danube Cycle Path and they and their bikes had been transported by Easy Jet from England. Steve's bike had been ruined in the baggage hold of the plane and he had to get it repaired. He had also got his wheel stuck in tramlines, fallen off and hurt his hip. A bad start for the trip. Steve also inspected my rear tyre and said the pattern of wear was caused by under-inflation. He used his metal pump to blow it up a bit and told me plastic pumps can never give the pressure required. We left the hotel and I cycled with them for a while but let them go ahead because I thought I might be holding them up. Later in the day, I met up with them again. I tried my debit card out for the first time as I had just run out of the Euros I had brought from England. It worked and I was able to increase my dwindling funds by 200 Euros. Later in the day cycled into Ulm and went to see the tallest church spire. My camera started working all of a sudden. I could take photos, but couldn`t see the results on the screen. I just hoped they were being recorded on the SD card. I left Ulm following signs but then must have missed one and lost my way. Headed North East and back to the Danube but couldn`t find a camping site. I then came across a pleasant spot by the river with benches and running water. Settled down then a young Polish girl called Julia came along on her bike and we got talking for two hours. She enjoyed talking English and later invited me to stay at her house, but I said her father might not like me turning up so I stayed on the bench and she cycled off home. It was not cold and I didn`t think it would rain. I made something to eat and used the last of my teabags I had brought from home and spent a comfortable night.


Day 16......... Tuesday 30th August........80 miles

Left my location in Lauingen early made sure I had left no litter. Continued to head North East following the signs. So easy but every day something goes wrong with my navigation. It usually happens in a town or village because the signs are small or sometimes change their format and if you miss one the only thing to do is retrace your route. I found a supermarket early there were people queuing outside so stopped to buy some provisions. It was like Lidl with no baskets and was cheaper than some of the others I had been to. The boy found me a box and tried to speak English. It wasn`t very good, but I appreciated it. The Germans seem very gentle friendly people. Went through the big town of Ingolstadt where there was a lot of traffic. Headed eastwards through the town on the cycle paths all controlled by lights. Nearly knocked off my bike by a car crossing the path. He didn`t see me or wasn`t concentrating. I just speeded up and dodged away from his bumper. His fault but I just rode on and didn`t display any road rage. All vehicles have treated me with respect and consideration. Not like the UK where a few motorists don`t understand cyclists and their difficulties. I was getting tired and wanted somewhere to stay. As usual, could find nowhere. Got to a village called Vohburg and suddenly saw a camping sign. The site was on the grounds of a hotel and cost 8 Euros. I pitched my tent where there was a picnic bench to sit on and I was quite happy for the night.


Day 17........Wednesday 31st August........ 59miles...... Total miles 1087miles


Left the campsite by 7.30am quickly got on to the cycle route and went North-East towards Regensburg. The Danube was very scenic and there were lots of cyclists heading along a winding towpath. Suddenly came across a chain blocking the towpath and cyclists waiting. Couldn`t figure out why the chain was there at first but was told the path continues on the other side and you have to take a boat to Kelheim. It takes about 20minutes and costs 7 Euros. It was an interesting journey with a commentary in German. We all disembarked and I got confused with all the different cycle routes. Trusted my GPS and proceeded E/NE and eventually came to Regensburg. My camera hadn`t worked properly since the storm when it got wet, but it seemed to be taking photographs but I couldn't view them afterwards on the screen. I was suspicious it wasn`t recording the photographs. I went into a camera shop and the assistant tested my SD card and told me none of my photographs was on there. All the shots I had taken since leaving England were gone. The storm had a lot to answer for. I decided to buy another digital camera for 99Euros and began taking shots of Regensburg. Although I was devastated about my photographs I kept telling myself it was all part of the trip. Turned SE and headed towards Straubing. Started to get weary and saw a shelter next to the river with a large porch and bench. Decided to stop for the night. Sent a text to Steve and Matt and their reply told me they had only got to Ingolstadt.

Day 18.......1st September..........71 miles



My shelter for the night of the 31st August

Left my shelter early and headed for Straubling and arrived fairly early and took some photographs in the town. I decided to buy myself a baseball cap to replace my favourite cap I had mysteriously lost in France. Went into a shop where a pretty German lady spoke to me in English. We got on really well, so I took my time choosing a hat. I ended up buying one that suited me with `Jack Wolfskin` on the front. After leaving Straubling everything was going well until I missed a sign and was lost again. Used my GPS to make sure I was going in the right direction but couldn`t pick up route 6. After going in circles on an industrial site eventually reached Deggendorf. It started to rain slightly and I decided I ought to treat myself to proper accommodation. I tried a couple of places that were signposted but they seemed deserted. Went into a cafe for coffee and met a German couple on a cycle trip to Passau. They had all the right maps and were pleasant to talk to. The man`s name was Wolfgang and I explained about the journey I was doing. Eventually, I found a hostel near a town called Vilshofen about 20 miles from Passau. It cost 35 Euros including breakfast.

Day 19......... 2nd September........ 48 miles.... Miles covered 1206

A campsite by the Danube in Austria 2nd September

Think I was the only guest at the hostel that night. For breakfast, there was so much food. After breakfast had a shower and left about 10am. Headed towards Passau on the cycleway. After about 6 miles ran into Wolfgang and Waltraud, my two German friends of yesterday. We took some photographs they bought me a coffee. They also gave me a map book of the route to Vienna as I told them I had lost my own detailed book of the route. We chatted in broken English and exchanged email addresses. I left and continued on my way, stopped then met them again. They were catching the train back to Regensburg. They pointed out a huge cycle shop where I bought a new tyre ( continental touring plus, 20 Euro) and some lubricant. I was worried about the wear on my rear tyre and whether I would be able to buy one later on in Eastern Europe. I pumped it up to 4 bar and soon I was on my way and got through Passau without any trouble. On the eastern side of the town entered Austria and continued to follow the river. It started to rain and I came to a camping site in Engelhartszell. I went in and had a discussion about the price. I thought they wanted 50 Euros for one night. Couldn`t get the proper price. I then discovered the people who were trying to charge me were guests themselves so I was not sure what was going on. I did not stay there. I continued along the road and after a few miles came across a lovely campsite and marina on the Danube for 10 Euros

.

Day 20..........3rd September........ 76 miles

The hotel

 Left the campsite early and cycled up a very steep hill that seemed to go on forever. Up, up, up, then down. No cycle path. Thinking to myself Austria not like Germany regarding `always a cycle path`. Suddenly at the bottom of the hill one appeared and went on for miles. More hills on each side of the Danube now and more activity on the river including speedboats, commercial craft, large passenger cruisers and cross-river ferries. Stopped at a small town before Linz and had some breakfast (two cheese sandwiches and a cup of tea.. I had managed to buy some English breakfast tea, but it was expensive. Most of the teas sold in supermarkets are herbal teas) I then carried on along the river path mile after mile. Smiled at passing cyclists, but did not get much back. So many cyclists here do not even say hello and look rather grumpy. Saw several roller bladers too. Eventually stopped at a town and bought some food in a supermarket. Sat outside in the sun and ate four buns, 1 peach, a banana and drank a beer ( I`m not a beer drinker at home, but do so here in the hot sunshine) Carried on cycling but think I took the wrong path and lost my way. Eventually got back to the Danube using my GPS. Arrived at Grein and just carried on, realised it was a mistake as the road was narrow and there was no campsite. A short cycle path appeared which I took and saw a spot where I could camp wild next to the river, secluded from the road. Went back to a hotel I had passed and treated myself to a meal and glass of beer. Returned later to the camping spot, erected the tent and spent the night.


Day 21.......Sunday 4th September........69 miles

My tent by the Danube

Left my piece of free camping by the Danube and headed East. After 20 miles felt hungry so stopped for food. Only had potato powder which I mixed with hot water and ate. It was just to fill my tummy and give me some energy which it did for a while. Kept going, saw many cyclists young and old and just followed the river. Cycled across a dam where hydroelectricity is produced then saw route 6 signs that I hadn`t seen since Germany. Soon got very hungry and weak, but couldn`t find a food shop open because like Germany most shops don`t open on a Sunday in Austria. Came to a town called Krems and found a garage that sold food. It was expensive but I had no choice. I sat down outside the garage and ate a whole packet of biscuits, two rolls and drank a carton of milk. I jumped back on the bike and was on my way, but it took half an hour for my strength to return. I arrived in a town called Zwentendorf and settled into a camping site. Although it had hot showers there was no one to collect any money. Had a text from Matt and Steve. They had just got to Regensburg and were about four days behind me.


Day 22........Monday 5th September............. 73 miles


Stopped and made some tea

Left the site and did my usual 20 miles then had a bite to eat and made some tea outside a railway station. Sent a text to Comber (a charity that I supported) to say how I was getting on, then continued my ride and eventually arrived at Wien ( Vienna). I stuck to the outskirts of the city as I had read how difficult it was for cyclists to get out of. I soon passed through and got onto one long road on top of a dyke that went on for about ten miles towards Hainburg. When I arrived there I got shopping in the town but again there was no campsite nearby. Met some young English cyclists who hoped to get to Belgrade. Had a chat then cycled back to Petronell to a campsite that was marked on the map? The weather was threatening rain and it looked stormy. On finding the campsite just let me in and erected the tent.

Today got a little annoyed at how unfriendly some of the cyclists were. Never a smile or glance or a greeting. They look miserable, not everyone but enough for me to comment. In England, we usually acknowledge when passing especially in wide-open spaces, but here they look straight ahead as though you don`t exist. They are probably reserved or don`t like foreigners or there`s just too many cyclists.

Day 23......Tuesday 6th September.......... 76 miles

Again nobody collected any money at the campsite. Don`t think I would have paid anyway as there were no showers. Left early and headed back towards Hainburg then followed route 6 towards Bratislava. All went well until I reached the old border installation and crossed into `iron curtain` territory. Suddenly things became not so good. Big deterioration in the cycle path. Reached Bratislava went over a bridge into the city and there were no route 6 signs to follow. I didn`t have a clue which way to go. Used the GPS to set a route to Gyor. This was the only town I knew between Bratislava and Budapest as my book had been lost. It set me a compass bearing to leave the city. I knew I was going in the right direction.

Bratislava

I soon reached an empty road heading south-east . The road ran along the border between Slovakia and Hungary. Eventually, this beautiful road came to an end and I was forced onto a rough track, that I didn`t like at all. I was on this track for ages but eventually came to a tarmac road and continued southeast. Found a cycle track that took me all the way to Gyor passing through some delightful Hungarian villages. It was a stimulating ride as the terrain was flat with a following wind. On reaching Gyor I made for a campsite near the Zoo that was closed. I rode back into the centre and found tourist information. They directed me to the city campsite, but when I came out of the office I was stopped by a lady who asked if I was German. When I said English she explained that she had a hotel and asked if I wanted a room. She said it was 20 Euros. I followed her back to the Buda hotel and she showed me the room, but then said she had made a mistake and it was 40 Euros. It was such a lovely room and I needed some luxury so I took it. I don`t think she was ripping me off, she just made a mistake



The centre of Gyor

Day 24.........Wednesday 7th September....58 miles

Had breakfast at the Buda Hotel in Buda Street then made my way to the tourist office to ask about directions out of Gyor. There was a Canadian couple there asking for similar information. I left before them and whilst navigating through an industrial estate realised they were behind me. Their names were Robbie and Cynthia. They were doing a two-month tour of Europe finishing in Turkey, meeting relations, then flying back to Canada. We cycled together for the rest of the day. The roads and cycleways were not so good in this part of Hungary and at times I was concerned about the stresses and strains on my bike. The Hungarians seem friendly enough and there are plenty of supermarkets including Spar and Tesco. We found a pleasant campsite where we stayed and met a wayward English guy going the other way on his bike with many stories to tell.


Robbie and Cynthia from Canada

Day 25......Thursday 8th September...........83 miles

Managed to sleep in a bed rather than a tent as the girl in charge gave me a key to a room so I could use the bathroom, So I thought may as well sleep here rather than the tent. I left the campsite early and continued along route 6 which was a road with heavy traffic. Eventually came to a cycle path running alongside the busy road. It went on for miles but suddenly came to an end and my only option was to return to the busy road. I didn`t feel comfortable, as the side of the road was poor, but this road took me into Budapest. Reaching a major city always gives me a good feeling and sometimes I feel comfortable cycling towards the centre. I found a park and stopped for a bite to eat, then crossed a bridge and had a look at the parliament building and took some photographs. Made my way south following the river and out of the city. I now had a detailed book ( Danube Bike Trail Budapest to the Black Sea, part 4) but surprisingly found a large number of route 6 directions. Bought some supermarket supplies then continued to a town called Rackeve where I started looking for a campsite. Couldn`t find one but came to the Oasis Bike Motel where I decided to stay for 12 Euros plus two extra for breakfast. Basic but a haven for me with my bike secure in my room.                                                       



Park in Budapest

Day 26.........Friday 9th September.......... 71miles

Left the hostel at about 9am and went to the bank and withdrew 10,000 Forints (£40) to get me through Hungary. Continued on my way on main roads, occasionally seeing route 6 on a signpost. Always got a good feeling when I saw a sign, but the route seems to be on a busy road with lots of traffic. Was careful to keep as far right as possible. Passed many supermarkets. I stopped in a town called Apostag and bought some lunch and found a place to sit and eat. There were some children nearby who I tried to communicate with but they didn`t understand me. I carried on to a place called Harta along a road on top of a dyke that ran parallel to the main road for miles.I felt good and listened to music on my mp3 player and had the whole road to myself. I reached Harta and the route 6 signs directed me along a road that gradually got smaller and turned into a rough track. I should have turned back but I thought I could get to another tarmac road. I came to a stream which I tried to cross with the heavy bike. I sank up to my knees in mud but just managed to pull myself out and then went back a long way covered in mud, angry that I had wasted so many miles. I eventually got back on the right route and decided someone must have moved the sign round. I continued along the main road but suddenly was attacked by a dog who ran alongside my bike trying to snap my ankle in busy traffic. I looked down on him and he seemed to be laughing at me. I was worried he would run around the front of the bike and bring me down. This had happened to me before on two occasions in England when I`d hit a dog with my front wheel. I started shouting `Yesh! Yesh`!( means get down you a beast or something like that) at him in my most scary voice. It`s a Romanian word which most dogs respond to in Romania and do what they are told. I suddenly realised I was in Hungary not Romania and the dog wouldn`t understand `Yesh`. So I shouted F...k off. It worked, he stopped chasing me. I never looked back to see where he went. I arrived at Kalocsa and bought some food, then tried to get accommodation. Set the GPS for lodgings and it took me to a hostel which turned out to be a school. The principal wondered what I was doing in his school. I showed him my GPS and he escorted me to a hotel that turned out to be full. I then saw a campsite marked on my map about 4 miles away that I made for thinking it would probably be closed down. It wasn`t and I was the only camper. The boss charged me 2000 Forints but his wife gave me a meal and he gave me his homemade alcoholic brew to taste.

I was the only camper on site

Day 27.......... Saturday 10th September....................50 miles......Total 1762 miles

Left the campsite and route 6 took me to the top of a dyke where the surface was asphalt and this went on for 12 miles. It was slow going and wasn`t a good beginning to the day. It got very hot but I plodded on, stopping for a bite to eat and drinking a beer that I had bought the previous day. Passed through Baja where I took a few photographs. A German tourist spoke to me thinking I was German. He told me he was holidaying with his car and fold-up bike. Continued to Mosacs along another asphalt dyke. Suddenly my bike felt different and I realised I had my first puncture of the trip. I had to make a repair so took all my panniers off, removed the back wheel, took off the tyre and just put a new inner tube in. I was soon on my way. Phew! I hated the thought of being stranded where no one speaks English. Arrived by the side of the Danube, the town of Mosaics was across the river. Found a campsite which was also empty, had a shower, put the tent up and took the ferry across the river to the town. Unfortunately, all the shops were shut so couldn`t get any supplies so had a meal in a restaurant then caught the ferry back to the campsite.



A wedding in the town of Mosacs

Ferry across the Danube

What it all comes down to in the end is your legs, determination and the ability to improvise

(Jonne Corax) From Euro-Velo 6 in Serbia signpost junction 2380

  

Day 28........ Sunday 11th September................. 48 miles

Caught the 7am ferry back across the Danube, bought some bread and followed route 6 out of town, mainly on main roads, but it was Sunday so there was little traffic and no lorries. Went through several small villages then came to the border where I had to show my passport at the Hungarian checkpoint, then immediately after at the Croatian border. The young policemen asked me in a stern voice where I was going. The scenery was non-descript. It gradually got hotter, went into a shop and tried to buy food but they wouldn`t take my Hungarian money. They wanted Kuna not Forints. The girl told me there was a cash machine in the next town called Knezevi-Vinograd. I usually don`t believe hearsay but when I got to the town found the cash machine right next to the supermarket. Drew 1000 Kuna ( £125) and got some supplies. Continued towards Osijek where I found a hostel to spent the night. Hostels are so pleasant. They are cheaper and friendlier than hotels and there are fellow travellers to talk to and listen to their stories.

The hostel in Osijek where I stayed

Day 29......... Monday 12th September....... 52 miles

I was thinking of taking the day off in Osijek as I liked the hostel, but when I woke up I decided I`m happier on the move rather than just wandering around a town by myself. I got myself ready and left heading towards Vukovar. When I arrived I couldn`t find an attractive centre, but lay down on a bench by the river and fell asleep. When I awoke I felt dopey and couldn`t think where I was at first. Decided to carry on towards Ilok near the Serbian border. I decided to find a hotel because I had lots of Kuna. Found the Dunav Hotel on the banks of the Danube, that long winding river I have been following for days and days. It`s four weeks today since I started my ride. My mileage is 1862. My weight is 85kg. Lost 5Kg since I started. Feel fit but have a slight cold. I was not suffering from hand and leg cramps which I had been having before I left England.



Dunav Hotel



Day 30........Tuesday 13th September......... 52 miles

Arrived at the border and showed my passport to the official at the border. No smile. Why can`t they smile and be pleasant? Rode into Serbia and encountered some steep hills. Covered the miles as I do every day. Went through a village and saw a lady selling clothes. I bought three pairs of socks then realised the currency had changed again. It was now Dinar, but luckily I had two Euro which I offered. She accepted them with delight and gave me an extra pair of socks. I carried on towards Novi Sad where Nato in the 1990s bombed the bridges. Arrived in Petrovaradin and became desperate for water and money. The heat was unbearable and I couldn`t find a bank, so I set the GPS on finance and located one. The GPS took me across the river and I entered the bank, but a security man told me I couldn`t draw money there and the cash dispenser was round the corner. Eventually got some Dinar, had a beer, bought some water and felt much better. Carried on toward Belgrade. Went up a massive hill that went on for ages. When I got to the top the landscape on the other side was flat for miles. I had a shock on the road when I passed a man standing on the pavement staring at me and looking angry as I came towards him. As I passed him he picked up a hammer. For a minute I thought he was going to strike me with it, but of course, he didn`t. It was just my imagination working overtime. Reached a town called Beska where I saw a hotel and rented a room for 3450 Dinar (£29)

                                                                                                 



Canopy of grapes

 Day 31......Wednesday 14th September.......... 62 miles

Had breakfast under a canopy of grapes. Breakfast consisted of bread, coffee and jams and wasn`t very exciting but it filled me up. I decided I prefer hostels. When you are on your own hotels are dead. The staff are so stiff and starchy and never make conversation. When I left I cycled south-east along bumpy roads. Got a bit cross with some of the drivers because they just can`t slow down ( was warned that eastern European drivers can`t generally deal with cyclist) It was hot again so stopped for a couple of beers and a rest. Eventually got to Belgrade before I expected to and found a good cycle path that took me off the busy road. It came to a sudden end because of road works and I was back on the busy road. Went over a bridge and took a cycle route around a castle. Stopped and had asleep on a bench then took the cycle route through the city towards a place where the map indicated there was some accommodation. When I got to the area couldn`t find it anywhere. Did some asking and was directed to a hotel that turned out to be posh and expensive. She wanted 50 Euros for one night. I asked if they knew of a bikers hostel. They did and gave me a map but I had to retrace my route across Belgrade. The names of the streets were in Greek letters and the GPS wouldn't take them, so I had to keep asking. It got dark and I had to put my lights on, but eventually found the hostel. The manager charged me 800 Dinar and it was just right for me.



At the hostel in Belgrade



Day 32.............. Thursday 15th September....... 65 miles

Left the hostel at 9am and made my way through Belgrade in heavy traffic and on difficult roads. Temperature not so hot so the water lasted longer. Arrived at Smetheovo and sat down by the Danube and fell asleep. Carried on but had real difficulty finding my route. The GPS took me all over the place and I became frustrated and couldn`t find a place to stay. Was still searching after dark and just had to sleep rough. Not what I wanted to do but had no choice. Made myself a cup of coffee and slept in my bivy bag.

Day 33......... Friday 16th September...........51 miles

I felt I had not slept all night on my rough sleeping patch, but I must have done because the time went too quickly. I felt very dirty and was pleased to be on my way quickly because a bunch of farmers were gathering nearby. I felt much better in the daylight and was heading towards Pozarevac. I headed towards a motorway and was allowed to use the slip road of the motorway road to get on to my route. I then realised why my GPS played up the night before, trying to send me off route. It was programmed to avoid motorways and normally to avoid motorway slip roads. Everything was going well and progress was good. I stopped for coffee in Pozarevac where the waiter was very friendly and supported Manchester United. We also talked of the Serbian tennis player Jokavitch who had just won the US Open and Wimbledon in July. I also got the waiter to charge my camera so I could take some photographs. I then headed towards Klicevac and on the way stopped to get some supplies in a village. I was asked by an old man if I was German ( he was probably younger than me) I told him where I was going and he told me which way to go. My GPS and the signs all told me the opposite way. When I had bought my supplies I just followed the signs through the village. Suddenly the man stepped out in front of me and in a very loud voice told me to go the other way. I turned around and went as directed then stopped around the corner. I thought he`s preventing me from cycling through the village and I was just about ready to make a dash for it at full speed when I saw another man and on asking him, he told me to go the same way as the first chap. I accepted local knowledge went the way I was directed. I was determined to get accommodation and I came to this delightful village called Vinci. I stopped for a beer, then saw a hostel on the riverfront where I got a room for 1000 Dinar with a beautiful view across the Danube with Romania on the other side, although I knew I would be in Serbia for another couple of days. From the balcony of my room, I could see the Romania town of Moldova Veche across the river and to the right in the distance the start of the Iron Gates where the Danube cuts a channel through the southern Carpathian Mountains.



Outside the hostel in Vinci in Serbia



Day 34...........Saturday 17th September......................43 miles

After saying goodbye to Violet and Vlad who ran the hostel and writing in the visitors book( Vlad told me it would take two weeks to reach the Black Sea) I did not think it would take that long. I headed towards Donji Milonovac. The scenery became stunning as I approached the Iron Gates with forests on both sides of the Danube. I read that there were Bears and Wolves in this area so I thought of what my English friends had warned me about before I left and had a good chuckle to myself. I went through many tunnels, some quite long where I turned my lights on in case a vehicle ran into the back of me. I kept stopping to enjoy the views. Passed underneath Grolubac Castle, built by the Hungarians in the 13th century. Eventually reached Donji and tried to find a place to stay. It was Saturday night everywhere was full up. At one place where I asked the man spent ages ringing around to find a place for me with negative results. He told me Saturday night always a problem, but Sunday night plenty of rooms. He eventually found me a place in a house with two old ladies and took me there. It wasn`t the best place as my room was too full of furniture and neither lady spoke any English and one of them thought if she shouted at me I would understand what she was saying. The room cost 1200 Dinar ( £10.25) but I was grateful to get a place to stay.

Galubac Casle

 Day 35......... Sunday 18th September......42 miles

Left the house early after not sleeping well as it wasn`t a proper apartment, just an overspill room. Had a good start and made progress through the mountains. The area is called the Iron Gates because when the Romans first navigated up the Danube they couldn`t get any further because of the rapids. No sign of rushing water today because the water level has been raised. Also unexpectedly ( as my book told me it was only visible from the river) saw a monument of a face carved into the rock on the Romanian side. It is called Decebulus Rex. He was the last king of Romania from 87AD to 106AD. Eventually got to the bridge at Sip that crosses the river and takes you into Romania. Had to show my passport on the Serbian side, then again on the Romanian side. There were so many Romanians cars waiting to be searched for contraband, but I bypassed the queue and entered Romania without any questions being asked. After 10 miles of cycling came to the town of  Drobota Turnu Severin. Withdrew 500 Romanian Lei from a cash machine (£110) and found a pension (hotel) to stay the night for 100 lei (£25). The receptionist and the waiter had what seemed like a row about where I could put my bike and later I managed to find a Carrefour to buy food and after a meal in my hotel room went for a walk around the town. I was shocked to see so much broken and not repaired, many stray dogs and big holes in the pavement without any barriers that people could fall into and disappear. It made me shiver.



One of the many shorter tunnels



Day 36............19th September...... ..82 miles

Left Drobeta and the unfriendly hotel and headed South East on the main road with a little cycle lane which is always welcome. Made very good progress with a tailwind. After about twenty miles while travelling very fast two big dogs decided to attack me. They both ran aggressively across the road barking and showing their teeth. I also went on the attack with loud shouts of `Yesh, yesh, yesh` There was such a commotion people came out to look. It worked the dogs backed off then one of them nearly got run over by a car. I continued through the many Romanian villages and found the children friendly, but was upset at all the bodies of stray dogs on the roads. No one even moves their bodies, they are just left. I stopped for a beer and the wind changed and blew hard against me. It was a battle going east and progress was slow.The road turned south so the final 10 miles to Calafat was easier. On reaching the town found a hotel called The Panoramic and rented a room with breakfast ( 90 Lei.) The room was basic but had views over the Danube with Bulgaria on the other side.



Carving of the first king of Romania ( look carefully)



Day 37...........Tuesday 20th September.......88 miles

Left the hotel and knew the journey that day was going to be difficult. My book recommended taking a train for a bit, but I didn`t want to as I wished to cycle the whole distance. There was a nagging headwind again but I battled on stopping for a beer I had been carrying. Once back on the road, I saw a cyclist catching me up in my mirror. I thought this can`t be a local because they don`t go fast on the sort of bikes they ride. It turned out to be the first of two German cyclists, Julius and Robert. They had cycled from Vienna but by a different route to me. The previous night, like me they had stayed in Calafat but in a different hotel. We rode together for the rest of the day talking about many things. My new friends wore straw hats so we got lots of attention from the children going through the many villages, who liked to play High Five with us. It was a good ride because we got to Carabia by dark. There was accommodation shown on the map but it turned out to be a hotel. They wanted 120 Lei each (£25) which we thought was too expensive. We offered them 100 Lei each but they refused although the hotel was empty. We left and searched in the dark for the second hotel and eventually

Amazing view

found it with difficulty. They wanted 130 Lei each and we had to say no, again and they would not take less. We waited outside and after ten minutes the boss came out and said 100 lie each would do. We were all put in one room with two beds and one mattress on the floor.( 300 Lei, £60 for one room, well and truly ripped off) I offered to sleep on the mattress, but Julius said he would as he was the youngest.

Day 38...........Wednesday 21st September....... 73 miles


My two friends Julius and Robert left the hotel before me because they wanted to get to Giurgiu then cross the bridge to Ruse in Bulgaria. When I finally left the hotel there was a strong easterly wind that was against me and cut down my speed. I struggled on listening to music on my mp3. I was going to try to reach Zimnicea where the map showed accommodation. The weather was cloudy with spots of rain. Went through village after village all very much the same. Old ladies dressed in black sitting outside their houses watching the world go by or going about their business and men drinking outside the many bars. I managed to reach Zimnicea and discovered two hotels next to each other. Enquired at both but would not pay what they

Julius and Robert

wanted for a room. Again they would not take my offer although the hotels were nearly empty and I realised these people did not know anything about doing business. What they charged was too much for a cyclist who just wanted a simple bed for the night without any luxury. I carried on towards Giurgin but it was getting dark so I stopped at a shop and bought some food then sat down in a bus shelter tired and a bit fed up. A gipsy boy saw me and started talking to me. I just nodded because I hadn`t a clue what he was saying. He put his hand in my pannier bag grabbed a packet of biscuits and walked off. I was happy to lose the biscuits to get rid of him. I decided to go on to the next village where I found a better bus shelter where I started preparing some food. Suddenly an old man saw me. He was a bit drunk and wouldn't go away even after I had shown him my map and where I had come from. He kept trying to grab my phone, so in the end, I got cross with him. He left and I settled down for the night. I had a text from Matt and Steve to say they had reached Budapest and Steve`s bike had been stolen and he would now have to buy another. I felt sorry for them as my trip had gone so smoothly.

                                                                                                                    Day 39..... Thursday 22nd September.........69 miles




Me and Julius

Left bus shelter after a good sleep and continued towards Giurgiu and passed Friendship Bridge (the bridge across the Danube to Bulgaria) After Giurgin I made a mistake by following a quiet road instead of staying on the main road, I reached an unmade road, some gipsies who were living in wagons tried to stop me, but I knew enough not to fall for that trick and just rode on. I had to stay on this dyke road for a long time. After a long dusty hot ride, I got back on a tarmac road and continued towards Oltenita. There was a strong wind against me which meant it was slow progress. Every time a lorry passed me there was so much turbulence I was blown off the road each time. Once I arrived in Oltenita I used the GPS to find a hotel by setting it to lodgings. The first one I came to was satisfactory and I paid 100 lei.

Hotel in Oltenita

Day 40...... Friday 23rd September...........83 miles

Left the hotel in Oltenita and headed towards Calarasi. The weather was better and the wind has eased so this was the best days cycling since reaching Romania. Again went through many villages and noticed the arrogance of some of the motorists driving through the villages, honking their hooters telling everyone to get out of their way and just not slowing down when passing children, horses and carts. Not so much the drivers of the small cars, but usually the upmarket cars. I noticed some of the locals getting upset and annoyed by these drivers. Twice I had to get off the road because of cars overtaking and coming towards me. They must overtake at all costs and have the attitude I`m big and powerful so everyone must get out of my way. My progress was good and got to Calarasi and took a right turn to the ferry that crosses the Danube. Bought my ticket and the ferry was full with cars. I just managed to squeeze on the deck with my bike. Got to talk to Julian who was with his family and could speak good English. We talked about Romania and my journey. He lived in the village Ostrov located just by the crossing and said if anyone needs help just ask for Julian with the beard who works by the ferry and anyone will tell you where to find him ( Useful information as you never know when you might need help) On disembarking the roads were cobbled and difficult to cycle on. I was so glad when I reached the tarmac as I was vibrating from head to foot. Got as far as Ion Corvin, but there was no accommodation, so I found some grass and pitched my tent and stayed the night. I`m about 70km from Constanta, so should be there tomorrow if I`m not eaten by a bear...Haha!

Ferry across the Danube at Calarasi

. Day 41........Saturday 24th September........ 53 miles

Today I completed the 53 miles to Constanta but passed through the city dodging all the drain holes and came to Mamaia, a holiday resort on the Black Sea where I had spent a package holiday 42 years before in 1969. There was a big sandy beach where I could take some photographs by the water to prove I had reached the Black Sea.

The Black Sea had its usual onshore breeze and most of the hotels were closed, the season is over. I managed to get a room at the Doina Hotel that was built in 1964 and paid 80 lei. They had no internet so could not send out my final plea for some sponsorship. I sent Comber a text to say I had arrived. My computer told me I had burnt 8kg of fat (18Ibs). I didn`t believe it until I got on the scales and discovered I was now 12stone 4Ibs (78kg) instead of the 14stone (89kg)I had started out at. So ladies/gentlemen you know what to do to lose weight. The journey was over and completed and that was that..... How did I feel ?...... I was addicted to the daily routine of travelling and would have liked to have continued into Bulgaria and Turkey. I also felt better than I had at the beginning of the trip. I will definitely do another journey next year. Maybe the pilgrim's route between Canterbury and Rome. Less than half the distance of this ride but some of it over the Alps.





Wild camping with sheep for company

GPS and computer showing mileage 2626.6miles and latitude and longitude

Sunday 25th September

After a good night in the hotel cycled into Constanta as I wanted to find the tourist office, the internet and the railway station.  After cycling around the town I could not find any of the three. Then met a man who said he would give me information for 25Lei (£5) I should have known better but he spoke English and I was glad to have someone to talk to. The directions he gave me were useless, I think he just made them up. I went back to the hotel and stayed another night.


Monday 26th September.........125miles

I asked the receptionist for my passport and paid my bill. Because I came from the United Kingdom she kept calling me `Your Highness` and this made me laugh. I didn`t like to point out it should be `Your majesty`.. I packed everything on my bike securely for the long ride.

I had to get to Milosesti where I was going to leave my bike before I returned to the UK. I had been thinking of catching a train to Slobozia but as I couldn`t find the railway station in Constanta decided to leave early and cycle there. Looked up my route on the map and started out from the hotel. Everything went well on the ride until I came to a road across two branches of the Danube and neighbouring marshland. I knew it was the main road but it turned out to be a motorway and I saw signs saying no bikes, carts, pedestrians. I looked at the map and the route around this road was another seventy miles. I decided to take a chance and cycle on the motorway hard shoulder. There were no cameras, few cars and no police. The ride went on for ten miles and not one car tooted at me. I then came to the toll gate. I saw a hut with space next to it that I could use to get past the toll collector. I took it. A man came out and said something. I just replied Buna (hello) and kept cycling, then managed to get off the motorway. I was quite pleased with myself. I kept cycling and got to Slobozia by dark. I still had twenty miles to go. I put my lights on with a red flashing light on the back and continued. I eventually arrived at Amara and sat down in the dark at a picnic table to have something to eat and let the traffic ease. I then carried on in the dark listening to my mp3 player. I was excited at ending my journey and arrived in Milosesti. Sadly I then discovered my pannier bag with mainly my clothes in had fallen off my bike somewhere between Amara and Milosesti. (distance 10miles) The road was bad in places and it must have fallen off on a rough patch without me realising. I was very tired after 125 miles and it was late but I cycled back three miles but didn`t see it. I gave up and decided my clothes would be recycled but would need a wash and someone would be pleased to have the pannier bag.

My route from Mamaia to Milosesti... 125 miles

On the beach at Mamaia by the Black Sea

My trip had ended and after several days booked a Euro-Lines coach (£120) and came back to Victoria Coach Station leaving my bike in Milosesti with the intention of picking it up next year. 


The total cost of the trip £1200 including a new camera, tyre, ferry fare and coach fare back to the UK...... My total mileage for the whole trip was 2900 miles

The bike was a Giant CRS Hybrid








Accommodation:
1 night on the boat
13 nights in campsites
2 nights wild camping
9 nights in hotels
6 nights hostels
8 nights rough sleeping (mainly bus shelters)




Gallery       (photographs not in chronological order)

Self-portrait of me arriving in Milosesti at the very end of the journey after a ride of 125miles

The blue Danube

  

A paddle in the Black Sea at Mamaia

View of the Danube

The water tower in Vukovar in Croatia. Memorial against the 1990s Balkan war

My two German friends, Wolfgang and Waltraud Ding

The joy of cycling along cycle paths

Enjoying a continental breakfast at the Buda Hotel in Gyor

Cycling along a ten-mile dyke in Hungary

A group of school children in Romania

A route 6 sign in Hungary

The wear on my rear tyre

An organic bike

Children in Romania

New tyre to put on the bike in Passau

An Eastern Orthodox Church in Croatia. Usually the smartest building in the village

Trams in Hungary

One of the many shrines where there was always a seat to rest

Oasis Bike Motel where I stayed

Arriving on the outskirts of Belgrade

Budapest

Welcome to Croatia

Complicated bike route signs

After a day on the fields in Romania

Harvest time in Romania

Romanian and bike

A quiet road

Loaded up with maize stems

A solar cooker

A continental breakfast

Entering Romania from Serbia

A Cow in Austria

A cow in Romania

Car ferry across the Danube

The Black Sea

A refreshing beer

Tunnel through the rock face

The End